Hardanger Machine Embroidery aka “Hardangish”

Hardangish is my term I coined for my Hardanger Machine Embroidery because, let’s face it, no machine can truly duplicate handmade Hardanger embroidery. But I try. As a consequence, I’ll sometimes use the terms interchangeably when talking about my machine embroidery interpretation of this fabric art style.

These designs require fabric and water soluble stabilizer.

Some of my Hardanger designs are free-standing designs (not free standing lace). Rather, they’re of ornaments, bookmarks, etc. which can also can be applied to items impossible to hoop. In some instances, they can even be sewn together into larger projects…that really make a statement.

Hardanger On-Point Collection
Bookmarks make nice gifts and fit into a card – Hardanger On-Point Collection

Hardanger and jeans are an unlikely combination. But I like embroidery on jeans. Regrettably,  they’re too much trouble to hoop. However, free-standing designs make embellishing those favored jeans sooo easy. Slide the pants leg over the cuff feature of your sewing machine and stitch down the pre-fabricated design.

After the designs attached, you may turn the item inside out and cut away the fabric from behind the designs for a peek-a-boo method. The open, lacy parts show up so nicely this way.

Hardanger On-Point Collection
Hardanger On-Point Collection

In some cases, designs can be sewn in blocks, and stitched together to make larger, bolder projects, such as table covers, bedspreads and jackets. Oh, my.

Hardanger Squared Collection
Hardanger Squared Collection

Hardanger Rainbows was my first attempt at adding color sequences to a traditionally monochromatic fabric art form, thereby giving it more contemporary look.

Hardanger Rainbows

Don’t miss out on showing off some Hardanger to your family and friends.

Hardanger Machine Embroidery

Hardangish

Hardanger Alphabet

Hardanger Angels - Bella

Hardanger Angels - Heather

Hardanger Angels - Mary Jane

 

Hardanger Dimensions

Hardanger Eggs

Hardanger Floral Angels

Hardanger Floral Hearts

Hardanger On-Point

 

Hardanger Ornaments

Hardanger Rainbows

Hardanger Squared

Hardanger Stockings

Hardanger Wreaths

 

Cultural

Embroidery and fabric arts in general, like other artistic expressions, often have a cultural component unique to the people and places from which they originated. Regardless of origin, I’ve been fascinated and amazed with the richly different expressions of fabric, as well as how borrow from other forms. It’s why I’ve tried my hand at translating some of these techniques.

Over the years, I’ve hobbled together a unique collection of machine embroidery that I hope pay homage to a few cultural origins of inspirations. That collection includes a rather extensive series of Hardanger Machine Embroidery – or I use to call it, Hardangish.

Hardangish Squared Table Cover

Also favorites are Hmong and Mola inspired designs

Laura's Sewing Studio Hmong

Molas Nouveau Fish & Uh-Oh
Molas Nouveau Fish & Uh-Oh

But more recently a collection of  Mehndi art transformed to thread. These are by no means the sum total of artistic creativity and I have more art forms and ideas to explore than I suspect I have time left to finish. But isn’t that a good thing.

Lauras-Sewing-Studio-Mehndi-Body-Art

Hardanger Machine Embroidery

Hardangish

Hardanger Alphabet

Hardanger Angels - Bella

Hardanger Angels - Heather

Hardanger Angels - Mary Jane

Hardanger Dimensions

Hardanger Eggs

Hardanger Floral Angels

Hardanger Floral Hearts

Hardanger On-Point

Hardanger Ornaments

Hardanger Rainbows

Hardanger Squared

Hardanger Stockings

Hardanger Wreaths

Hmong

Hmong

Hmong's the Way

Mehndi

Mehndi Body Art

Molas!

Molas Nouveau

Mucho Molas Nouveau

Placement Method for Multiple Hoop Designs

My method for aligning multi-hoop designs works best with a light box or light box set up.

This is the method I use to create large designs like the ones you might create using one of embroidery design collections: Hardangish Rainbows, Cutwork, Pillowcases, Prisms Amour, Fantasy Applique, Monogram Potpourri and more.

 

 

For a ‘Master Template’, print a paper template of the entire design. If you have a computer program that will allow you to put the entire design together onscreen, do that. Then print it actual size. This master template is 6.5 x 11 inches.

My embroidery software program allows me to do this. When I print the whole design actual size, it prints on several sheets of paper. It creates registration marks on each page for aligning the individual pages. I tape them together trimming the excess margins as needed using a rotary cutter and mat.

Alternatively, print the “individual” designs. Cut them out and tape them together creating the whole design for a ‘Master Template’.

Fold the master template in quarters to create the x/y coordinates for the whole design. This is needed to align it with the fabric.

The x/y coordinates are shown here in black on the master template.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You will also need templates of the individual designs.

Print paper templates of each individual design and cut these out.

Be sure the x and y coordinates are drawn on each one.

Shown here this design is divided into 6 parts. Each part will be hooped into a 4×4 hoop and sewn to create the whole design.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prepare you fabric as you normally would for embroidery.

Fold the fabric in quarters to create the x/y coordinates and mark with a washable marking pen (shown here in blue).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Using a light box or light box set up, place the ‘Master Template’ on the glass with the light turned on.

Tape it onto the glass.

Place the fabric on top aligning the blue x/y coordinates on the fabric with the black x/y coordinates of the Master Template.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This photo shows 2 templates in place.

Using the individual paper templates, place the first one on top of the fabric.

You should be able to see the master template design through the fabric using the light box. Align the design of the individual template with the design on the master template.

Hint: For darker fabrics cut off the overhead light to see through the fabric. This is how I did the Fantasy Applique blocks, borders, and corners.

Tape or pin the template in place. Pin thru the fabric and individual template only.

Once the first template is in place, repeat this process for the second one. I usually put 2 templates on at a time before starting to sew.

 

 

 

 

Hoop the fabric/stabilizer as you normally would using the x/y coordinates on the individual paper template to align it with the 4×4 hoop and hoop template.

NOTE: The x/y lines on the master template and the fabric are only for placing those 2 together. It does not apply to the individual templates.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I prefer to hoop only the stabilizer.

Using a ruler mark the x/y coordinates with a washable marking pen shown here in blue. I used the quarter marks on the hoop for alignment.

Spray the stabilizer with spray adhesive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Place the hoop on the light box.

Lay the fabric over the hoop aligning the x/y coordinates on the stabilizer with the x/y coordinates on the individual paper template.

Once aligned, press the fabric onto the spray adhesive. Pin around the edge of the hoop with straight pens. I prefer my pins be a little bent for this.

Be sure to pin close to the outside edge of the hoop so the machine will not hit any pins when sewing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bring up the design on you machine. Rotate, mirror, whatever needs to be done, before placing the hoop on the machine.

Once the hoop is on the machine align the needle at the center x/y intersection printed on the individual template.

Once you have done this, write down your machine settings (rotation, mirror, left/right/up/down, etc).

Remove the pins from the template.

Remove the template.

Sew the design.

Repeat the above process for the next design.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shows the second template hooped and aligned at the machine, ready to remove the paper template and sew.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you have sewn the first series of designs, return to the Master Template.

Place the fabric on top and realign the blue x/y coordinates of the fabric with the black x/y coordinates of the Master Template.

It is ready to repeat lining up the next 2 individual templates and sew some more.

Shown here the next 2 designs are aligned and ready to be hooped.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This shows all 6 templates sewn.

This method works well for me for any size design including very large designs like the Together quilt. This design is 19”x 32”. I hooped it 27 times.

I use this same method for embroidering multiple designs on garments as well. I hope this method works good for you too.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finished Pillow – 166×270 mm

 

 

Shown here sewn on an 18” pillow.

This pillow was made for my friend Cyndi
She was my Secret Pal 2002.

 

 

 

 

 

Terms for Re-use and Redistribution

If you would like to share these instructions with your friends, please be fair and send them to this website to read it.

If you are a teacher or retailer and would like to use the information contained here in your classes please distribute the contents in its entirety giving full credit to Laura at Laura’s Sewing Studio.

Laura Waterfield

www.LaurasSewingStudio.com

Laura@LaurasSewingStudio.com

If you have any words of wisdom to add, please email me. I am always open to learning new ideas and better ways to sew.

If you want to use my tutorial in a group or part of a class instruction, please send your students to this website to print the directions themselves. If you must print it for them, then please print it in its entirety, including my copyright and web address. Thank you for your integrity!

Copyright © Laura Waterfield 2002-2018

Hardanger Dimensions

Hardanger Dimensions Table Runner
  • All 16 designs shown above
  • Includes full-color,  illustrated instructions (PDF)