- Includes 10 designs , sorry but the alphabets are not included
- Includes 8 floral spray designs meant to bracket monogrammed projects
- These designs fit the 5×7 hoop (125 x 175mm)
- Alphabets are not included. Sorry.
- Includes six (6) floral spray designs meant to bracket monogrammed projects. This is the big sister of the series.
- These designs fit the 6×10 (150 x 250mm hoop)
- Alphabets are not included. Sorry.
These are one of three size-specific design sets in a series.
Circle Geese and Mariner’s Compass Using Two Different Variegated ThreadsI was asked for examples of designs that do well with variegated threads. That inquiry inspired this post.
Generally, any Quiltering (quilting), Redwork, or Bluework designs work well with variegated threads as shown above with the Circle Geese around the Mariner’s Compass. It’s when you get into satin stitches and solid fills that variegated threads become problematic, as these bad girls show their unpredictability.
Summer’s Gold Quiltering Designs came out beautifully with this orange => yellow variegated thread. If you’re into quilting (or quiltering as I’ve come to think of it when using an embroidery machine), the variegated thread can add a new dimension to your project.
Some variegated threads do okay with satin stitches as shown below. However, most variegated threads stripe when used with satin stitches. I got lucky with this dark to light green variegated used to stitch the leaves. The rule of thumb in using variegated with stain stitches is test sew, before committing to your project. I know that sound pretty straight forward but I have a rainbow of Post-its littering my sewing room to remind me of that very thing.
I used variegated green in all of the Monogram Potpourri designs but because the leaves are so small it worked out perfectly in creating the illusion of varying light upon my leaves.
Although this Hardanger Squared design has a lot of satin stitches it did well with this particular multi-colored variegated, principally because the colors in the thread has short segments, allowing for a higher rate color turnover through satin stitch sequences.
Using the same variegated thread for the satin stitches, as shown above, this Illusions design below looks good – interesting even – but at the cost of losing some of it’s illusionary effect. As a consequence, I’ve put it in my What If pile, with a note to try sewing it with an ombre thread, just to see how how the thread shading affects the illusionary effects of the design
These two designs are from our Nutz N Boltz collection and these all look great with variegated threads
As you can see, variegated threads are a mystery as to how they will turn out when going from one design to another. That’s why is is important to test sew them in various stitch forms to see how they are going to show up when sewn onto your particular project. That’s where my Thread Sampler Designs come in.
My Thread Sampler Designs will simplify your variegated thread life. They are for hoop sizes 4 inch to 8×11 inches. These are easy to sew reference sheets for yourself of your variegated thread stash. They will help you determine which threads best fit your project before sewing it. It takes a lot of the guess work out. You’ll be glad you went through the exercise making Thread Samplers.
Simplify your Variegated Thread life
Learn more about the Thread Sampler Designs
If you’ve come up with a project and thread combination that knocks your socks off, I hope you’ll share.
My method for aligning multi-hoop designs works best with a light box or light box set up.
This is the method I use to create large designs like the ones you might create using one of embroidery design collections: Hardangish Rainbows, Cutwork, Pillowcases, Prisms Amour, Fantasy Applique, Monogram Potpourri and more.
For a ‘Master Template’, print a paper template of the entire design. If you have a computer program that will allow you to put the entire design together onscreen, do that. Then print it actual size. This master template is 6.5 x 11 inches.
My embroidery software program allows me to do this. When I print the whole design actual size, it prints on several sheets of paper. It creates registration marks on each page for aligning the individual pages. I tape them together trimming the excess margins as needed using a rotary cutter and mat.
Alternatively, print the “individual” designs. Cut them out and tape them together creating the whole design for a ‘Master Template’.
Fold the master template in quarters to create the x/y coordinates for the whole design. This is needed to align it with the fabric.
The x/y coordinates are shown here in black on the master template.
You will also need templates of the individual designs.
Print paper templates of each individual design and cut these out.
Be sure the x and y coordinates are drawn on each one.
Shown here this design is divided into 6 parts. Each part will be hooped into a 4×4 hoop and sewn to create the whole design.
Prepare you fabric as you normally would for embroidery.
Fold the fabric in quarters to create the x/y coordinates and mark with a washable marking pen (shown here in blue).
Using a light box or light box set up, place the ‘Master Template’ on the glass with the light turned on.
Tape it onto the glass.
Place the fabric on top aligning the blue x/y coordinates on the fabric with the black x/y coordinates of the Master Template.
Using the individual paper templates, place the first one on top of the fabric.
You should be able to see the master template design through the fabric using the light box. Align the design of the individual template with the design on the master template.
Hint: For darker fabrics cut off the overhead light to see through the fabric. This is how I did the Fantasy Applique blocks, borders, and corners.
Tape or pin the template in place. Pin thru the fabric and individual template only.
Once the first template is in place, repeat this process for the second one. I usually put 2 templates on at a time before starting to sew.
Hoop the fabric/stabilizer as you normally would using the x/y coordinates on the individual paper template to align it with the 4×4 hoop and hoop template.
NOTE: The x/y lines on the master template and the fabric are only for placing those 2 together. It does not apply to the individual templates.
I prefer to hoop only the stabilizer.
Using a ruler mark the x/y coordinates with a washable marking pen shown here in blue. I used the quarter marks on the hoop for alignment.
Spray the stabilizer with spray adhesive.
Place the hoop on the light box.
Lay the fabric over the hoop aligning the x/y coordinates on the stabilizer with the x/y coordinates on the individual paper template.
Once aligned, press the fabric onto the spray adhesive. Pin around the edge of the hoop with straight pens. I prefer my pins be a little bent for this.
Be sure to pin close to the outside edge of the hoop so the machine will not hit any pins when sewing.
Bring up the design on you machine. Rotate, mirror, whatever needs to be done, before placing the hoop on the machine.
Once the hoop is on the machine align the needle at the center x/y intersection printed on the individual template.
Once you have done this, write down your machine settings (rotation, mirror, left/right/up/down, etc).
Remove the pins from the template.
Remove the template.
Sew the design.
Repeat the above process for the next design.
This shows the second template hooped and aligned at the machine, ready to remove the paper template and sew.
Once you have sewn the first series of designs, return to the Master Template.
Place the fabric on top and realign the blue x/y coordinates of the fabric with the black x/y coordinates of the Master Template.
It is ready to repeat lining up the next 2 individual templates and sew some more.
Shown here the next 2 designs are aligned and ready to be hooped.
This shows all 6 templates sewn.
This method works well for me for any size design including very large designs like the Together quilt. This design is 19”x 32”. I hooped it 27 times.
I use this same method for embroidering multiple designs on garments as well. I hope this method works good for you too.
Shown here sewn on an 18” pillow.
This pillow was made for my friend Cyndi
She was my Secret Pal 2002.
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