Embroidery Frames – Part 1 of Embroidery Frames Tutorial

The Not Free-Standing Frame

This tutorial covers Two Types of Embroidery Frames

Free-Standing Frames & Not Free-Standing Frames

Note: The Free-Standing Frames in this tutorial are not free-standing lace.
However, I do have a free-standing lace frame here.

Pictures in this tutorial are from Lacy Heart Frames Collection

Sewing the Embroidery

Following the directions that came with the designs, prepare the fabric, and hoop it with the additional stabilizers noted.

If using the single corners, sew 4 repeats. Be sure 2 of them are the mirror image designs**. That’s why they are there.

If using the special left/right side designs (requires 6×11 hoop) then sew two repeats. One being the mirror image of the other**.

**Note: The two sides of the corners are not identical. Each side is a different design. Hence, the mirror image designs.

Follow the thread changes listed in the document.

This method does not use fusible stabilizer at the end because these designs will not be faced. And the last color change is skipped

Shown here on the Navy pillow project

Lacy Hearts Frame Navy Pillow Project
This pillow cover is 13 inches square with 12 inch pillow form.

Laura’s Notions


After the embroidery is sewn, cut out the 4 blocks (or the 2 rectangles if you used those two) using ½-inch seam allowance along the sides that will be the inside of the frame.

The size of the fabric outside the frame is however large you want it to be. My navy pillow top is cut 2 ½ inches larger outside the embroidered frame.

Half-inch seam allowances are easier to press open. Pressing the seams open creates a flatter surface for adding the design to the center.

This diagram shows how to position the four squares and the ½-inch seam allowances.

Assembly Diagram of the four squares comprising the frame.
Assembly Diagram of the four squares comprising the frame.

Make sure the two ends of each corner match the ends of the corners they will be sewn to. As noted above, the two sides of the corners are not identical. Each side is a different design. Hence, the mirror image designs.

Right sides together, sew corners 1 & 2 together along this line. This is the top of the frame.

Repeat for the corners 3 & 4. This is the bottom of the frame

Right sides together, sew the top and bottom together the same way.

Press the seams open. See Part 4 for details about pressing.

Once pressed the frame is finished and ready to add the center design.

This diagram shows the two special designs for the smaller embroidery frame. This frame accommodates a 6×6 center design or smaller.

These two designs are sewn in the 8×11 frame.

This is the designs I used for the navy pillow project.

The 6x11-inch designs.
Alternatively, you can stitch the 6×11 inch designs.

Right sides together, sew the center ½-inch seam

The two 6x11 inch designs all stitched out.
The two sides of my pillow frame, stitched and ready to assemble.

Press – see Part 4 for details about pressing.

The two 6x11 inch sides stitched together.
The two 6×11 inch sides stitched together.

The size of the fabric outside the frame is however large you want it to be. My navy pillow top is cut 2 ½ inches larger outside the embroidered frame.

Now the frame is finished and ready to receive the center design.

The center design can be sew directly onto the center fabric or appliquéd to it. My navy center design was already stitched  so I appliquéd it to the center. see Part 2 for how I did this and how I made the design “poof”.

Continue – The Navy Pillow Project – Part 2 of Embroidered Frames Tutorial