The Free-Standing Frame
Note: The Free-Standing Frames in this tutorial are not free-standing lace.
However, I do have a free-standing lace frame here.
Pictures in this tutorial are from Lacy Heart Frames Collection
Sewing the Embroidery
Following the directions that came with the designs, prepare the fabric, and hoop it with the additional stabilizers noted.
If using the single corners, sew 4 repeats. Be sure 2 of them are the mirror image designs**. That’s why they are there.
If using the special left/right side designs (requires 6×11 hoop) then sew two repeats. One being the mirror image of the other**.
**Note: The two sides of the corners are not identical. Each side is a different design. Hence, the mirror image designs.
Follow the thread changes listed in the document including the last step and thread change.
Watch the videos related to this collection
Remove all from the hoop.
Use ¼-inch seam allowances for the Free-standing frames.
This distance is already stitched. It is where the stitches stop on either end when the fusible stabilizer was sewn on. Shown here with the dashed black line
Cut across this line on each end of each design.
Cut out the designs 1/16-inch outside the stitch lines that attached the fusible stabilizer – shown in purple. Take your time doing this.
Careful not to cut anymore off the two ends where the pieces will be sewn together.
For turning, the stabilizer needs to be cut open. Use scissors to cut through the center of the fusible stabilizer as shown.
Pinning & Sewing Together
Lay out the four corners and match the design elements end to end
Take 2 and place right sides together and pin in place.
Make sure the two ends of each corner match the ends of the corners they will be sewn to. As noted above, the two sides of the corners are not identical. Each side is a different design. Hence, the mirror image designs.
How I pin to hold embroidery elements aligned together
Pin at each element by pushing a straight pin straight through the top piece and straight down into the same spot on the bottom piece. I do this for each element – shown done with white head pins.
Carefully insert the (red) pins that will stay into the fabric as you sew.
Careful not to offset each spot where the white pins are inserted.
Notice the white pin tips are still in the same spot and sticking straight up.
Sewing ends together
Set up the machine for a straight stitch set a 4 mm length. This way if the elements don’t remain aligned it is easier to remove these longer stitches.
Start with the needle down just off the fabric and onto the stabilizer.
Sew on the fabric one to two thread widths inside the row of stitches made during the embroidery process. Don’t sew across the stabilizer. Just sew on the fabric.
Don’t forget you will be sewing over some of the embroidery because it extends a little bit into the seam allowance for continuous embroidery stitches in the well of the seam.
Sew off the end of the fabric one stitch onto the stabilizer
Open it up and Check to see if the elements are aligned
Set up the sewing machine for a straight stitch set at 2.5 mm length
Go back and sew over the 4 mm stitches made earlier to secure the seam
Now the top of the frame is constructed.
Repeat for the other 2 corners to make the bottom of the frame
Repeat the same process sewing the top and bottom together to complete the frame.
Continue – Finishing Free-Standing Embroidery Frames – Part 4 of Embroidery Frames Tutorial